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The geometry that keeps your tyres pointing the right way.
Wheel alignment, often called tracking, is the process of adjusting the angles at which your wheels sit relative to each other and to the road surface. When those angles are correct, your tyres roll straight and true, wearing evenly across the full width of the tread. When they're off, even by a fraction of a degree, tyres scrub sideways with every mile you drive. That means faster wear, worse fuel economy, and a car that doesn't handle as well as it should.
There are three primary angles involved: toe, camber and caster. Modern alignment rigs, whether laser or full 3D camera systems, measure all three on each wheel and compare them against the manufacturer's specification for your exact make, model and variant. The technician then adjusts whatever is out of range until the geometry matches the factory settings.
It's one of those jobs that most drivers only think about when something goes wrong: the car pulls to one side, the steering wheel sits at an angle, or a set of tyres wears out far sooner than expected. But a proactive alignment check once a year, or after any significant impact like a pothole or a kerb strike, can save you hundreds of pounds in tyre replacements and keep your car handling the way the engineers intended.
Toe, camber and caster explained.
Every wheel alignment check measures the same three angles. Here's what each one does, why it matters, and what happens when it drifts out of specification.
Toe
The most commonly adjusted angle
Toe is the angle at which your tyres point inwards (toe-in) or outwards (toe-out) when viewed from above, like looking down at your feet. Even a tiny toe error causes the tyre to scrub sideways with every rotation, which accelerates wear dramatically. Toe-in wears the outer edge; toe-out wears the inner edge. Most alignment adjustments are toe corrections, and it's the one angle every car allows the technician to adjust. On UK roads, where potholes and rough surfaces are a fact of life, toe is the angle most likely to shift after an impact.
Camber
The lean of the wheel
Camber is the tilt of the wheel when viewed from the front of the car. If the top of the wheel leans outward, that's positive camber. If it leans inward, that's negative camber. A small amount of negative camber is normal and improves cornering grip, but too much wears the inner tread rapidly. Camber can shift after a heavy impact or as suspension bushes wear. Not all cars have easily adjustable camber. Some require eccentric bolts or camber shims, and on a few designs the only fix for a bent camber angle is replacing the affected suspension arm.
Caster
Steering stability and self-centring
Caster is the angle of the steering axis when viewed from the side. Think of a bicycle fork: it's angled so that the wheel trails behind the steering pivot, which is what makes the bike go straight when you let go. Your car works the same way. Positive caster helps the steering self-centre after a turn and promotes straight-line stability. Caster is rarely adjustable on standard road cars, but a significant caster difference between left and right can cause the car to pull to one side. A hard kerb strike or pothole hit can alter caster if it bends a strut or subframe mount.
Five signs your alignment needs checking.
Misalignment doesn't always announce itself. Sometimes it creeps in gradually. But if you notice any of the following, get it checked before your tyres pay the price.
Pulling to one side
The car drifts left or right when you let go of the steering wheel on a flat, straight road. You find yourself constantly correcting to stay in lane. This is one of the clearest signs of a toe or camber issue on the front axle.
Uneven tyre wear
One edge of the tread is significantly more worn than the other, or one tyre is wearing faster than its partner on the same axle. This is your tyres telling you the angles are wrong, and it's costing you money in premature replacements.
Steering wheel off-centre
You're driving in a straight line, but the steering wheel isn't level. It sits a few degrees to the left or right. The car tracks straight enough, but something in the geometry has shifted, usually the toe setting.
Vibration through the steering
A shimmy or vibration at speed can point to alignment, though it's also a common symptom of wheel balancing issues. If balancing has been checked and the vibration persists, misalignment or a bent component is the next thing to investigate.
Squealing on turns
Tyres that squeal or scrub audibly when turning at low speed, especially in car parks, can indicate excessive toe-in or toe-out. The tyres are being dragged sideways rather than rolling cleanly through the turn.
UK roads are not kind to your geometry.
Alignment doesn't just drift on its own. Something has to move it. These are the most common culprits, and in the UK, the first one on the list is by far the most frequent.
Potholes
The UK's single biggest cause of alignment problems. A sharp-edged pothole at speed transfers a massive shock through the wheel into the suspension arms and track rods. Even one bad hit can shift an angle by enough to cause noticeable tyre wear within weeks. Report potholes to your local council and keep a note of the date and location in case you need to make a damage claim.
Kerb strikes
Clipping or mounting a kerb during parking or a tight turn is a common culprit, particularly for toe and camber on the side that took the hit. It doesn't need to be dramatic. A firm nudge against a high kerb can be enough to bend a track rod end or shift a bush.
Worn suspension components
Bushes, ball joints, drop links and track rod ends all wear over time. As the rubber perishes and metal joints develop play, the geometry shifts gradually. You might not notice the change day to day, but a check on the alignment rig will show the drift. Alignment should be set after replacing any worn suspension part, not before.
Lowered springs or coilovers
Fitting aftermarket lowering springs or coilovers changes the suspension geometry by design. Camber, caster and toe all shift when you alter the ride height. A four-wheel alignment is essential after any suspension modification, otherwise tyre wear will be rapid and uneven.
New tyres fitted without a check
Fitting new tyres is the ideal time to get alignment checked. If the old tyres wore unevenly, the alignment is already off. Putting new rubber on without correcting the angles means the new tyres will start wearing the same way from day one.
Front only, or all four corners?
A two-wheel alignment (sometimes called a front-end alignment or front tracking) adjusts the toe on the front wheels only. It's the quicker, cheaper option and is perfectly adequate for cars with a solid (non-independent) rear axle where the rear angles are fixed by design. Older cars, some vans, and a handful of newer budget models fall into this category.
A four-wheel alignment measures and adjusts all four wheels, including the rear toe and camber. Crucially, it also calculates the thrust angle, which is the direction the rear axle is pointing relative to the centreline of the car. If the thrust angle is off, the rear end pushes the car slightly sideways, and the front wheels compensate by steering at an angle. The car might track straight, but the steering wheel won't be level and the tyres will wear unevenly.
For the majority of modern cars with independent rear suspension, four-wheel alignment is the better option. It costs a bit more but gives the technician the full picture and ensures all four tyres are working together rather than fighting each other.
What you'll actually pay.
Wheel alignment is one of the more affordable garage jobs. The prices below are typical for UK garages. Costs vary by location and garage, and can be slightly higher in London and the South East, or if the garage needs to replace seized adjusters or worn components before the alignment can be set.
Two-wheel alignment
Front axle only
£30 - £50
- Front toe adjustment
- Camber and caster check (adjustment where possible)
- Steering wheel centring
- Takes 30-45 minutes
- Suitable for cars with a solid rear axle
Four-wheel alignment
All four corners
£50 - £80
- Front and rear toe adjustment
- Camber check and adjustment on all wheels
- Thrust angle correction
- Steering wheel centring
- Takes 45-60 minutes
- Recommended for all modern cars
These prices cover the alignment check and adjustment only. If the garage finds worn track rod ends, bushes, or other components that need replacing before the alignment can hold, they'll quote the parts and labour separately before starting any additional work.
Get it right, and your tyres will thank you.
A set of decent tyres costs £200 to £400 for most family cars. Correct alignment means those tyres wear evenly and last their full expected life. Incorrect alignment can shorten that lifespan significantly, meaning you could end up replacing tyres far sooner than you should. A £30 to £80 alignment check could save you hundreds.
Beyond tyre life, properly aligned wheels improve handling, braking in a straight line, and fuel economy. It's one of the best-value maintenance jobs you can book.
After new tyres
Align after fitting, not before. New rubber deserves correct angles from mile one.
After a pothole hit
If the steering feels different or the wheel pulls, book a check straight away.
After suspension work
New springs, dampers, arms or bushes all change the geometry. Always realign.
Once a year as routine
A quick annual check catches drift before it costs you a set of tyres.
Wheel alignment FAQs
- How often should I get my wheel alignment checked?
- There's no fixed interval in the UK, but a good rule of thumb is every 12,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. You should also get it checked after hitting a deep pothole, clipping a kerb, fitting new tyres, or replacing any suspension component. If you notice any of the warning signs (pulling, uneven wear, off-centre steering), get it checked straight away.
- Is wheel alignment the same as wheel balancing?
- No. Wheel alignment (tracking) adjusts the angles at which your tyres sit relative to the road and each other. Wheel balancing corrects weight imbalances in the tyre and wheel assembly by adding small weights to the rim. You need both for a smooth ride, but they fix different problems. Vibration through the steering wheel at speed is usually balancing; pulling to one side or uneven tyre wear is usually alignment.
- Do I need two-wheel or four-wheel alignment?
- If your car has a solid rear axle (common on older cars and some vans), two-wheel (front only) alignment is usually sufficient because the rear can't be adjusted. Most modern cars with independent rear suspension benefit from a full four-wheel alignment, which sets the thrust angle and ensures all four corners work together. When in doubt, ask the garage. Four-wheel is the more thorough option.
- Can wheel alignment affect my fuel economy?
- Yes. Misaligned wheels create drag because the tyres are fighting each other rather than rolling in the same direction. Even a small toe error can increase rolling resistance enough to knock a few percent off your fuel economy. Over thousands of miles, that adds up to real money at the pump.
- Will a pothole definitely knock my alignment out?
- Not every pothole will cause a problem, but the UK's roads make it a common cause. A hard hit at speed into a deep pothole can shift alignment angles, bend a track rod, or damage a suspension bush. If you've hit something nasty and the steering feels different afterwards, get it checked. It's cheaper than a set of prematurely worn tyres.
- Should I get alignment done before or after fitting new tyres?
- After. There's no point aligning to old tyres you're about to replace. Fit the new tyres first, then align. That way the new rubber wears evenly from day one and you get the full life out of them. Many tyre shops offer an alignment check as part of the fitting package.
- How long does a wheel alignment take?
- A two-wheel alignment typically takes 30 to 45 minutes. A full four-wheel alignment takes 45 minutes to an hour. If the garage finds seized adjusters or worn components that need replacing first, it can take longer. Most places offer a while-you-wait service.
- Can I tell if my alignment is off just by looking at my tyres?
- Sometimes. Run your hand across the tread surface. If one edge is noticeably smoother or more worn than the other, that's a strong indicator of a toe or camber problem. Feathering (a sawtooth pattern you can feel but not always see) is another giveaway. But some alignment issues don't show on the tyres until thousands of miles of wear have passed, which is why a proper laser or 3D check is worthwhile.